Sunday, March 3, 2013

Chicken Parmesan

Today we shall tackle an age-old problem - no, not how to make Congress function - maybe that's for tomorrow. Who doesn't like Chicken Parmesan? Actually lots of people don't because there are three common problems - and more than once I've managed to end up with all three; soggy crust, dry chicken, and rubbery cheese. Today we shall tackle how to make Chicken Parmesan that is crispy, moist and where the cheese has that wonderful flavor but still remains creamy. All of these issues are addressed with aplomb in the current issue of Cook's Illustrated. What a great job it must be to work as a chef in the test kitchen at Cook's Illustrated, you are equally praised for your flops as you are for your successes as you try the same thing 30-40 times to hit upon the very best combination of ingredients and technique. I know without a doubt that I could shine in the flop category - but not with this recipe - it was perfect.

First we shall start by making the sauce. Oh sure, you could use any old pasta sauce but this is a simple and tasty homemade version that is ready in minutes.


Your basic pallet here is a 28-ounce can of crushed tomatoes, garlic (of course), some fresh basil, a bit of dried oregano and a pinch of dried red pepper flakes. I was making a double batch (the recipe serves four, I was cooking for seven) so I doubled up on everything. I couldn't decide between regular or fire-roasted crushed tomatoes so I opted for one of each. The one can method will make ample sauce to top the cutlets as well as four servings of pasta. Here's the ingredient list:

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves minced garlic
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
a pinch of red pepper flakes
1 28-ounce can of crushed tomatoes
1/4 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons of coursely chopped fresh basil


How I hate having to buy these tiny packages of fresh basil in the winter - the stuff grows like a weed here in the summer, but alas - when it's winter in Moab (especially this one!) - you just don't have many choices and basil is one of those herbs that substituting dried for fresh just doesn't work out as well.

Heat one tablespoon of the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat just until it shimmers. Add the garlic, salt, oregano, and pepper flakes, cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the tomatoes and sugar, increase heat to high and bring it to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until thickened, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in basil and remaining 1 tablespoon oil, season lightly with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and keep warm.

On to the chicken - and yes, once again it's the free-range all organic, peaceful life boneless and skinless breasts. The ones where they play classical music as they march them to the slaughter house.

 

Now most recipes for Chicken Parmesan will have you pound the chicken breasts thin.The problem with this approach is that it makes it too easy to overcook the chicken and dry it out in the process. The solution is to slice the breasts in half horizontally and then pound only the thick ends of the breast to end up with an even thickness. Freezing the breasts for 15-20 minutes makes the horizontal slicing much easier. Once you have them sliced, lightly sprinkle both sides with kosher salt and let them stand at room temperature for 20 minutes.



So here's the ingredient list for the rest of this adventure:

2 (6-8 ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed and halved horizontally
1/2 cup shredded whole-mile mozzarella cheese
1/2 cup shredded fontina cheese
1 large egg
1 tablespoon flour
3/4 cup shredded parmesan cheese
1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup torn fresh basil

Cheese - lovely cheese - how can a recipe with three different kinds of cheese be bad? It can't is my opinion, okay, maybe it can - but not this recipe!


Grate all of your cheeses - the fontina and mozzarella can be combined in a small dish and reserved for later. The parmesan will go into the panko bread crumbs along with the garlic powder, oregano and pepper, mixed together and put in a shallow dish or pie pan.

Now usually when you are breading something you'll have the whisked eggs in one dish, the flour in another and the bread crumb mixture in a third dish. Here's a neat trick - whisking the flour in with the egg works just as well and serves the same purpose.


Cheeses are ready - egg mixture ready - panko breading ready - let's get these bad boys ready for the skillet.

Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and one cutlet at a time dredge in the egg and flour mixture, allowing the excess to drip off. Then coat all sides in the panko-parmesan mixture, pressing the cutlet into the bread crumbs so that they stick. Transfer to a large plate while you repeat the process with all of the other cutlets.


Heat the vegetable oil in a 10-inch non-stick skillet until it shimmers. Carefully place two cutlets into the heated oil and cook without moving them until the bottom is crispy and a deep golden brown, about two minutes. Using tongs carefully turn cutlets and cook on the second side for another two minutes or so. Transfer to a paper-towel lined plate while you cook the remaining cutlets.

You'll want your oven rack about 4 inches from the broiler element. Place the cutlets on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and cover with the fontina-mozzarella mixture, covering as much of the surface area as possible. The fontina is the key to not having the cheese turn to rubber. You've got to have mozzarella for the flavor but by itself mozzarella can become tough under the broiler. The fontina is a more "tender" cheese and will keep the cheese layer creamy. Broil until the cheese is melted and beginning to turn brown, about 2-4 minutes.


Cover each cutlet with two tablespoons of the sauce, sprinkle with the torn basil, and serve immediately with a side of pasta and a tossed green salad.



This one's a keeper. The chicken was moist and juicy, the crust was crispy, and the cheese shined through in every bite. It's a clean and bright tomato sauce and by melting the cheese on the cutlets before adding the sauce it makes a sort of raincoat that protects the cutlet and prevents the sogginess that plaques so many Chicken Parmesan recipes. Judging from the clean plates left behind by all seven of us I do believe that everyone enjoyed it.

No comments:

Post a Comment